þÿ<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> <head> <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> <meta name="generator" content="RapidWeaver" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../../rw_common/themes/donnamac1/styles.css" /><link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../../rw_common/themes/donnamac1/css/styles/green.css" /><link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../../rw_common/themes/donnamac1/css/width/width_680.css" /><link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../../rw_common/themes/donnamac1/css/sidebar/sidebar_right.css" /><script type="text/javascript" src="../../rw_common/themes/donnamac1/javascript.js"></script> <title>Magnatum Pico</title> %user_javascript% </head> <body class="blog-archive-background"> <div class="blog-archive-headings-wrapper"> <div class="blog-archive-month">Magnatum Pico</div> <div class="blog-archive-link"><a href="../archive.html">Donna in Piedmont - Italy</a></div> </div> <div class="blog-archive-entries-wrapper"> <div id="unique-entry-id-29" class="blog-entry"><h1 class="blog-entry-title"><a href="Truffles.html" class="blog-permalink">American Truffles in Italy</a></h1><div class="blog-entry-date"> Filed in: <span class="blog-entry-category"><a href="category-food.html">Food</a></span></div><div class="blog-entry-body"><span style="font-size:10px; ">The </span><span style="font-size:10px; "><a href="http://www.tuber.it/eng/index.php" rel="external" title="Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufi">Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufi</a></span><span style="font-size:10px; "> is housed in the same building as the </span><span style="font-size:10px; "><a href="http://www.langheroero.it/" rel="external" title="Alba Bra Langhe Roero touris office">Alba Bra Langhe Roero tourist office.</a></span><span style="font-size:10px; "> I never really knew what these guys did until this year when they started offering truffle classes. <br /></span><br />The smell of a good truffle is one of those things that once you get embedded in your brain, you know it. It's like for most of my adult life I am sure I drank more than my share of corked wine, but once I had someone point out what that really means, I can pick out a corked wine with the best of them. <br /><br />With truffles, there is a smell that (because of the nature of smell) is hard to describe, once those synapses fired in my brain, I would describe as earthy, hay, slightly garlic with maybe a hint of honey. At least for the variety here in Alba When I smelled a too ripe specimen a slightly ammonia smell prevailed. A fresh truffle should be firm and a too ripe truffles will have a little give when pinched. Too young, you might as well be eating dirt, so we won't go there.<br /><br />So what does this have to do with truffles in America?<br /><br />Well, December 8, 2007 was the first International Fiera del Tartufi symposium where they invited people to represent the countries where truffles grow. Hungary, China, France and America. For various reasons (not the least of which was the people they really wanted were busy and I live here) they invited me to represent America. This was my speech:<br /><br /><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; ">Before moving to Italy my husband and I lived in Oregon a place that has many things in common with the Piedmont region of Italy. Mountains, forests, hazelnuts, fertile soil in the valleys and good growing conditions for premiere grape vines in the hills, the two regions both straddle the 45th parallel and they both have the perfect natural environment for truffles.<br /><br />This Pacific Northwest has more than 50 varieties of native truffles however there are only a few that are considered to be valuable for culinary purposes which are listed below.<br /><br />There has been a movement in America and Canada using techniques started in Europe to cultivate Tuber melanosporum (</span>Black P&eacute;rigord Truffle) <span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; ">and Tuber uncinatum (Black Burgundy Truffle). This effort began in America in the 1980&rsquo;s and has grown considerably since. Successful cultivation requires adjustments in the acid and PH levels not only to compliment these two varieties, but also to make the soil unattractive to native varieties. Today it is estimated that there are more than 125 hectares planted with considerable growth anticipated in the future.<br /><br />There has been an effort to duplicate cultivated techniques with species native to America as well as the Italian white truffle known as Magnatum Pico but so far they have been unsuccessful.<br /><br />One of the biggest differences between the old world and the new world of truffles is the method of harvesting. In the old world the tradition of the trifulau is passed down from generation to generation. In Europe there is also a knowledgeable clientele of markets and restaurants. <br /><br />In America, and specifically the Pacific Northwest the reputation of the native varieties of truffles has suffered because of harvesting methods. Fearful of losing out to other forages, they rake the soil away from the roots of trees harvesting ripe and unripe specimens together. Because buyers are not familiar with the characteristics of these native varieties immature truffles make their way into the markets and restaurants only to be rightly considered of lesser quality. This practice has contributed to keeping the price of native truffles very low. There is an effort to change these practices, however through greed and impatience this system continues. <br /><br />There is hope. <br /><br />Many of the farms of cultivated truffles use trained dogs and there is a growing number of dog training schools. In addition there is an effort by chefs and markets to educate the foragers and only purchase from knowledgeable sources.<br /><br />This world of truffles is an elusive and exciting place mixing scientists, gourmets and foragers. The balance and contradiction between the old world and new world continues. <br /><br />There are those who believe in the old world philosophy that truffles decide where they will exist and when they will be harvested and it is up to us to adjust and adapt to that reality. In other words, terroir is king.<br /><br />The new world seeks to create the environment that will provide that product to sell. Terroir is dissected and analyzed and ultimately copied to re-create the object of desire. The delicate mix of scientific interest, culinary passion and a certain amount of greed has fueled the business of cultivating truffles.<br /><br />Old world and new world practices both exist in America. There are passionate chefs who to not believe in cultivating non native species and work to train foragers on the benefits of harvesting only ripe specimens and there are chefs who are thrilled to use cultivated black truffles if for no other reason than to be able to serve their clients a truffle only hours from the ground.<br /><br />For me, I am only happy that I have been able to taste a perfectly ripe Magnatum Pico here in Alba and an equally impressive Tuber Gibbosum in Oregon. <br /><br /><br />Culinary varieties from America include:<br /><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; font-weight:bold; ">Tuber gibbosum </span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; ">which is also called the Spring Oregon white truffle. This variety is found west of the mountain range called the Cascades from sea level to about 2,000 feet (or about 600 meters) and is found throughout the Pacific Northwest. It is reported to be harvested from January through June. (<br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; font-weight:bold; ">Tuber oregonense</span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "> is called the Autumn Oregon white truffle and is closely related to and is often mistaken for Tuber gibbosum since they are found in the same areas however, the two species differ in shape and spore size and harvest seasons do not overlap. The Tuber oregonese has a more intense aroma and is highly prized by harvesters. This truffle is most abundant during late summer through early winter.<br /><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; font-weight:bold; ">Leucangium carthusianum</span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "> is known as the Oregon Black Truffle. Its aroma is considered fruity with hints of pineapple. It is found November through April.<br /><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; font-weight:bold; ">Leucangium brunneum</span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "> or Oregon Brown truffle is very rare.&nbsp; It does have great culinary potential. When it is harvested and can capture higher prices than any of the other Oregon truffles.<br /><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; font-weight:bold; ">Tuber Californicum </span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; ">is also called California truffle has a nice aroma but its size makes it difficult to have a culinary value. The truffle seldom exceeds the size of a pea and is often mistaken for a small Tuber Gibbosum. This truffle can be found all year, but in Oregon it is reported primarily in the winter and spring.<br /><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; font-weight:bold; ">Tuber lyonii</span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "> is often called the East coast truffle or the Pecan truffle. It is found from northeastern Mexico all the way to Ontario Canada and from the Great Plains to the East Coast. This is the most popular native truffle in the eastern U.S. and can be found in a wide variety of tree species, not only pecan trees. In all of my research I did not find anyone currently harvesting.<br /><br /><br />My thanks to <br /><br />Charles LeFevre &ndash; </span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://www.truffletree.com" rel="external">New World Truffles</a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br />Greg Higgins &ndash; </span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://higgins.ypguides.net/" rel="external">Higgins Restaurant</a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://www.natruffling.org/" rel="external">North American Truffling Society </a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://www.shirewoodfarm.com" rel="external">Shirewood Farms</a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://www.garlandtruffles.com/" rel="external">Garland Truffles</a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br /></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://www.southernfoodways.com" rel="external">John T. Edge </a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br /><br />And here in Italy<br />Marco Forneris and Flavia Boffa from </span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://www.lalibera.com" rel="external">Osteria lalibera</a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br />Aldo Vacca from </span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><a href="http://www.produttoridelbarbaresco.com/default_en.htm" rel="external">Produttori del Barbaresco</a></span><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br /><br /><br /></span><br />Excellent source of information on American truffle varieties:<br /><br />North American Truffling Society - http://www.natruffling.org/<br /><br /><br />Inoculated Trees:<br /><br />New World Truffieres Prof Charles Lefevre - http://www.truffletree.com<br /><br />Garland Truffles - http://www.garlandtruffles.com/<br /><br /><br />Truffle Sales &ndash; Native Oregon Species<br /><br />Shirewood Farms - www.shirewoodfarm.com<br /><br />Oregon Wild Edibles - http://www.oregonwildedibles.com/ (<br /><span style="font:12px 'Lucida Grande', LucidaGrande, Verdana, sans-serif; "><br /></span><br /><p class="blog-entry-tags">...<a href="tag-truffles.html" title="Truffles" rel="tag">Truffles</a>, <a href="tag-tartufi.html" title="Tartufi" rel="tag">Tartufi</a>, <a href="tag-american.html" title="American" rel="tag">American</a>, <a href="tag-tuber-gibbosum.html" title="Tuber gibbosum" rel="tag">Tuber gibbosum</a>, <a href="tag-magnatum-pico.html" title="Magnatum Pico" rel="tag">Magnatum Pico</a>, <a href="tag-tuber-melanosporum.html" title="Tuber melanosporum" rel="tag">Tuber melanosporum</a></p></div></div> </div> </body> </html>